The handcrafted production for which Offida is renowned is apparent upon arriving at the Largo delle Merlettaie, the entrance point to the town’s historic centre, which hosts the bronze monument to the lacemakers of Offida. This monument features three women, representing the three ages of life (a child, a young woman and an old woman), in the act of working pillow lace, an ancient art with a great tradition in Offida going back more than five centuries. This craft involves weaving several threads together, using knots and stitches, until forming lace in various shapes and sizes, featuring different decorative motifs.
In fact, books and paintings from the 16th century onwards document this ancient technique, and it is possible that both the Master of Offida and Simone de Magistris may have painted pillow lace made in Offida in some of their works. The art of pillow lace also spread from Offida to the nearby mountainous area of Appignano del Tronto, Castignano and Rotella, as young women who had been expert lacemakers since childhood moved from the town to these areas.
The pillow lace technique involves the use of hard wood bobbins, moved around in pairs on a firm pillow (known as a “tombolo” in Italian) supported on a tripod, weaving the thread so as to follow the outline of the design being reproduced.
In the centre of Offida, the Polo Museale Civico di Palazzo de Castelloti devotes an entire section to the technique and history of pillow lace. The five rooms of the Museo del Pillow lace display the finest pieces made using this ancient technique, used not only to create shawls and doilies, but also for dresses, covers, table cloths and altar decorations, wedding favours, trousseaus and other wedding accessories. This lace also has contemporary associations, as demonstrated by the dress – made entirely from pillow lace – designed by Antonio Bernardi, which is exhibited in the last room and was worn during a catwalk show by the model Naomi Campbell.
The art of pillow lace is still very much alive in Offida and the surrounding area, handed down from mother to daughter. Upon leaving the museum, pillow lace appears again in the numerous artisanal workshops in the historic centre, which as well as exhibiting and selling lace, also display the tools used to create it and provide the chance to see lace makers at work.
As well as the specialist pillow lace workshops, Offida also offers the opportunity to visit other artisanal workshops devoted to the production of pottery and gold-work, often combining the latter craft with lacemaking to give rise to beautiful pillow lace creations worthy of being flaunted.
Travel tips
Accommodation
Casa Carducci (B&B)
Piazza Forlini, 4; 0736887132; casacarduccioffida@libero.it; www.casacarduccioffida.eu
Eating out
Enoteca Regionale – Vinea
Via Garibaldi, 75; 0736880005; info@vinea191.it; www.vineamarche.it
Il Nascondiglio di Bacco
Contrada Ciafone, 97; 0736889537; www.vinoffida.it
What to see
Polo museale civico Palazzo de Castellotti, Via Roma, 17
October – May 10 am–12.30 pm;3 pm–7 pm (Sat–Sun and public holidays)
June – September 10 am–12.30 pm; 3.30 pm–7.30 pm (Mon–Sun); 21–24 (Fri)
Entrance fee €3.50 (full price); € 2.50 (reduced); € 5.00 (municipal museum network); € 10.00 (network ticket)
Teatro Serpente Aureo, Piazza del Popolo
June – September & public holidays 10 am–12.30 pm; 3.30 pm–7.30 pm (Mon–Sun)
October – May Reservations required
Entrance fee € 2.00
Santa Maria della Rocca
June – September & public holidays 10 am–12.30 pm; 3.30 pm–7.30 pm (Mon–Sun)
October – May Reservations required
Entrance fee € 2.00
Museo “A. Sergiacomi”, Via Ischia, 24
All year Reservations required
Entrance fee Free
Centro di Educazione Ambientale “Giano”, Via Roma 17
0736888609; info.oikos@libero.it; www.museipiceni.it e www.ambiente.marche.it
What to buy
Azienda agricola Aurora – typical wines
Contrada Ciafone, 98 – zona S. Carro; 0736810007; www.viniaurora.it
Azienda agricola Ciù Ciù – typical wines
Via Ciafone, 106; 0736 810001; info@ciuciu.com
Panificio Pandol – typical confectionery and pastries
Via Giuseppe Ciabattoni, 16; 0736.889761
Maria Grazia Easterlini – pillow lace
Viale della Repubblica, 77; 0736880200; info@pizziatombolo.it; www.pizziatombolo.it
Moretti Arturo – pottery
Via Lava 145, 0736 889661
L’Occhio di Horus, Gasparrini Marilina – goldsmith
Via Valle 51, 0736 889854
Events
11-20 July 2014
